***Now I have returned to Skyros. I realised that I wasn't looking for an island-hopping booze fest but for a place that brought me tranquil seas, tasty cheese and a plethora of cats and dogs. Skyros ticks all these boxes so I took a flight out of Athens this morning. (I am almost a commuter now.) I even had a Mallory Towers moment in the taxi as it came around the bend and the white icing cake layers of Skyros town first came into view. I could have been Darrell - as head girl of course. I had a beautiful welcome back too and when I came back from a swim I found a banana smoothie sitting under my hat waiting for me.